Day 4 - Emstrum to Porsmork

Day four had much nicer weather, no howling wind or rain, so we all headed off in great spirits.

Its really easy to believe in the saga's, and the stories of Trolls and Elves, when you are here. Over half of Icelanders believe, and there are many stories of how people don't build in a spot that an elf lives, or wont cut grass in an area where a troll is. This is people today, and they say Who Knows, its better to respect it than have bad things happen ( there are many stories of bad things happening, like a farmer breaking his leg building a stable next to a troll cave, after his wife had dreamt about them saying don't build there). Our guide told us lots of stories as we walked, which I loved!


 

Walked along the eastern branch of Markarflotsgljufor Canyon, to an amazing crossing point, where in the canyon, from a tiny bridge, you could look back up at the glacier.

This is called the River of Light, and the canyon narrows to 2 m!

We then hiked out the other side, and a good excuse to stop and catch your breath occurred often as you needed to look back at the view

We followed the canyon edge for quiet a while, and it was a magic walk. If a dinosaur had plodded into view you would not have been surprised, and the colours on the cliff line changed often. I stayed well back from the edge, as there are no guard rails in Iceland ( they just expect you to have common sense, or die!). Our guide laughed and said no one sues in Iceland ( we had 3 lawyers on the trip).

Things then rounded out into a lovely valley, and we had a great day of spread out walking. You could really start to see the vegetation buried in ash from the latest eruption, its still alive underneath trying to grow up to the light. 

We then came upon our first trees, Icelandic Willows, that are about 5 feet tall!!

As we neared the hut we got to see the river we would have to wade across, something that we had been thinking of all day..

The temperature was about 4 degrees, the water glacial melt, and we had to strip off our bottom half ( i had swim shorts), put on our river shoes ( mine are 70 cents from the Reyjkavik Red Cross shop), and cross in groups of four with arms linked.

It was breathtaking ( the cold, not my fashion!!) and we had to cross 5 channels, each 2-3 meters wide and thigh deep in the middle, with really strong current. Your feet went numb, so finding your balance on the stony bottom was hard! And then getting redressed on the other side was a scramble, my thermals never felt soooo good!!!

Then a rainbow lead us in to the hut at Porsmork, and a warm shower!! Luxury!!

Track Notes:
Distance 15 km., estimated walking time 6-7 hrs., elevation decrease 300 m. First we have to go around the canyon of "Syðri - Emstruá" and there is a very steep path down to the bridge so be careful. Then a walk through the area known as "Almenningar" with crossing of among other rivers "Þröngá". It is good practice when wading to go hand in hand and head downstream. After crossing "Þröngá" a 30 minutes walk takes us to the hut in "Langidalur" in "Þórsmörk" (75 persons, GPS 63°40.960 - 19°30.890) Landscape and vegetation is changing rapidly. Birchwood and all kinds of plants a welcome change after the desert now behind us.